By Lana Nasser
Oman.
It’s simple, diverse, intense, with lots of soul and flavour just like its people and beauty. The cuisine is an interesting blend of dishes from the Arabian Gulf with heavy Indian influences such as the Afghan-style kabuli, Saudi kabsa or the Yemeni mandi. Arabian, a.k.a as Lebanese, and Turkish restaurants are very popular and almost invariably are recommended by most Omani taxi drivers when asked about an authentic culinary experience. One of my favorite visits was to Bayt Al Turki “The Turkish House” in Muscat a few years back; it was rated as a good spot for romance and families. The place is far from romantic but I definitely fell in love with the food. The main attraction for me was the comforting smell of the Turkish flatbread as it comes out of the oven and served piping hot on the table. Right up there and comes to a close second is the grilled Safi fish or Rabbit fish as it’s also called in the Gulf region due to its rabbit like mouth. The fish is butterflied open, grilled over charcoal and served with tahini salad; the fish is so fresh you can still taste the ocean with your first bite. The meal is basic yet so wholesome and washed down with sweet cold rock melon juice right out of the fruit. The melon is cracked open on top and a straw conveniently inserted.
No food adventure is complete though without a lunch date at one of the mandi and mathbi restaurants, which are scattered throughout Oman. Some of the restaurants have their name used as their logo and it’s only displayed in Arabic, which in other words means that it’s best you come with someone who understands the language because English is not an option. I was chaperoned by my brother Ramzy, thankfully, because female diners hardly ever frequent these places. Besides the fact that I felt I looked like an alien from another universe, the food and service was superb. Our headwaiter efficiently changed the plastic cover on our table with their logo printed on it and we immediately got served lukewarm chicken broth or ‘maraq’ in small stainless steel bowls, which we picked up and slurped just like the rest of the diners. It was light and refreshing with a little cinnamon sweetness to it. We then placed our order of mandi and mathbi chicken and lamb madfoon, which was my piece de resistance, the kind of meal that leaves you with a memory to come back and relive it.
Mandi is a stew with rice cooked over a long period of time. Traditionally the rice, spices and water are simmered in special clay ovens that are built into the ground called Taboon. Hot coals are placed on top and steam isn’t allowed to escape until the meat has fully cooked. The word ‘Mandi’ is a derivative of the Arabic word ‘Nada’ which means dew and it represents the dewy or moist nature of the cooked meat. Unless you plan to dig a hole in your backyard, the best option to recreate mandi would be to use a pressure cooker. Mathbi, on the other hand, used to be prepared by placing seasoned meat on flat stones that have been heated on burning embers. Today’s easy version is a charcoal grill. The last method Madfoon also means ‘buried’ in Arabic; it involves creating a hole in the ground with a fiery pit, placing your foil wrapped lamb over the blazing fire and covering it up with hot coals until it’s cooked. The end result is a succulent, rich and flavorful fall-off-the-bone lamb. Of course I would recommend braising the lamb in a French Creuset pot on a low fire inside the stove for similar effects.
So what’s for dessert? Omani Halwa is usually enjoyed during wedding feasts and Eid celebrations instead of right after dinner. It is a gesture of hospitality along with Arabic coffee or ‘qahwa’ when greeting guests, regardless of class or social distinction. When we landed in Salalah airport, waiting for us, where we filled out our landing cards, was a big white plastic bowl of Omani date Halwa covered in Saran wrap, served with plastic spoons and a huge pot of Arabic coffee. The halwa is either yellow in color because it’s made with dried fruits and saffron or dark brown in color because of the dates. The sugar is then added with the oil, water, coconut, brown sugar, saffron, rose water from Jebel Akhdar and cashew powder; the ingredients are left to boil with flour and continuously stirred over a medium flame for two hours until the color changes. Halwa making is a tradition that’s passed down through the generations and every family holds their recipe dear to their heart, freshly prepared halwa is always carried near and far to loved ones. I must admit though it’s definitely more pleasing to the taste than it is to the eye because of its dark gelatinous appearance and unless you’ve had it before, your initial reaction would be to pass up on the experience but you’ll be missing out for sure!
