That one phrase, ‘Mangan Tanyon’, holds everything that is generous, hospitable and friendly about the Filipino culture. Running a catering kitchen, with strong Filipino representation, I always heard them say this during staff mealtimes and I used to think it was just meant for me, because of its drop-whatever-you’re-doing, take-a-break-and-join-us kind of ring to it. Later I found out that cooking and eating in the Philippines are traditionally an informal and communal affair centered around the family kitchen, so an invitation to be a part of it is extended to anyone spotted without a plate in hand.
I was already a member of the family without my knowing it and it is through the various Filipino dishes cooked for staff meal that my love story with the tastes and interesting flavours of the Philippines began.
The cuisine in the Philippines is considered to be as rich and as diverse as its numerous dialects, thanks to a mix of Malaysian, Indian, Spanish, Chinese, American and Asian Indian historical influences. With every change of power, each country’s culture left its mark by adapting to the indigenous ingredients and creating their very own local palate. Dishes range from the very simple meal of fried salted fish and rice, to the elaborate paellas and cocidos created for fiestas of Spanish origin, to the spaghetti and lasagna of Italian origin. A few of my favourites would be have to be the Chicken Adobo, Tortang Talong, Beef Kare-Kare and Chicken Afritada.
I think of Chicken Adobo as the coq au vin of the Filipino cuisine except it’s braised in vinegar, garlic, oil and soy sauce, which lends its characteristic dark colour and it is usually cooked until the sauce is dry. Although when I cook it for my kids, they prefer I leave behind a lot of that liquid slightly sweet-sour goodness. Tortang Talong, which basically means eggplant omelette, is a whip-up in a jiffy dish, which I’ve enjoyed on numerous occasions during our busy catering seasons when the chefs don’t have time to create a more elaborate lunch for the kitchen team. It is made by charring eggplant in the oven for a delicious smoky flavor, peeling the skin after it’s been cooled for a minute, softly smashing the eggplant into a flat pancake, soaking it in beaten eggs and then frying the eggplant-egg-pancakes until golden.
While the Chicken Afritada is also another easy-to-prepare dish made for your everyday lunch with tomato sauce, potato, carrots and sweet peppers, the Beef Kare-Kare, made from peanut sauce is usually reserved for special occasions because of the time and patience it requires to create.
Sometimes during their down time at work, I’ve noticed the kitchen staff snack on sweet green mangoes dipped in salt and that’s when I learnt more about the concept of counterpoint.
It is a feature in Filipino cuisine, which is normally brought about by the pairing of sweet dishes with salty ones, resulting in surprisingly pleasing combinations.
The one common ingredient that runs through all their dishes is the rice. ‘Respect the rice’ as some of the cooks would say. If there was some rice left over for the next day, it is usually fried for breakfast with sautéed onions and served with an omelet or scrambled eggs. When everyone sits down to eat together, it can either be done with a fork and spoon because of previous Western influences, or the traditional way using hands. This practice is known as ‘kamayan’ – and the spirit of ‘kamayan’ is most felt during nature trips, beach vacations or fiestas.
